Lustgas?
-
Bustamente
- Lärling
- Posts: 710
- Joined: Mon 06 Dec 2004, 23:54
- Location: Göteborg
Lustgas?
Någon som har någon länk eller något där man kan skaffa sig lite insyn i hur det fungerar att slänga på lustgastub på sin scooter?
Re: Lustgas?
Ola! Berätta!
/Guran
/Guran
Bustamente wrote:Någon som har någon länk eller något där man kan skaffa sig lite insyn i hur det fungerar att slänga på lustgastub på sin scooter?
==============================
Stahlblech Fahrer vereinigt euch!
==============================
Stahlblech Fahrer vereinigt euch!
==============================
-
Bustamente
- Lärling
- Posts: 710
- Joined: Mon 06 Dec 2004, 23:54
- Location: Göteborg
Har tyvärr ingen bild på det skjutna ramlagerläget i min vänstra blockhalva... 
Ständigt detta krav på länkar till er som inte har råd med google, som är gratis
kolla under INFO (under bilden), där finns lite mera instruktoner å sånt, på detta NOS system från SIP, om man väljer deras kit. Jag har ett mycket värre...
http://www.sip-scootershop.com/pages/de ... 8995acdfc2
Ständigt detta krav på länkar till er som inte har råd med google, som är gratis
kolla under INFO (under bilden), där finns lite mera instruktoner å sånt, på detta NOS system från SIP, om man väljer deras kit. Jag har ett mycket värre...
http://www.sip-scootershop.com/pages/de ... 8995acdfc2
Autisa -Trimcylindern för bakåtsträvare som vill åka lika fort som förr
GarrettW
Nitrous injection is probably one of the most misunderstood aspects of modern hotrodding today. I thought I would post a little blurb here on how it works.
Nitrous Oxide is the standard convention for pronouncing the chemical formula N2O. N2O means two molecules of nitrogen and one of oxygen. People will often confuse Nitrous Oxide (N2O) with Nitrogen Dioxide (NO2), a highly reactive pollutant found in smog. I think most everyone understands that N2O is a gas at room temperature and pressure. It’s colorless and has sort of a pleasant, sweet odor and taste, as long as it’s not contaminated with sulfur. When inhaled it can produce hysteria and euphoria so automotive N2O distributors put about 100 parts per million of sulfur in their mixes to discourage substance abuse. I used to get my bottle filled by a distributor who would only buy medical grade nitrous (no sulfur added) claiming that it provided more horsepower than the automotive grade stuff. The truth of the matter is that sulfur is an extremely powerful odorant (you only need a few molecules to make a stink) and the very small amounts added to automotive grade mixes are insignificant as far as power is concerned.
I think the common misconception about Nitrous Oxide injection is that many people think N2O is a flammable gas. It is not, N2O is inert, it does not react with oxygen to burn or explode. N2O is stored as a liquid under very high pressures. When reduced to room temperature the liquid boils into a gas and cools to cryogenic temperatures (specifically about -130 degF). What makes N2O so grand is that at around 570degF the molecule splits apart releasing oxygen atoms. These necessary high temperatures are reached on the compression stroke of an engine. So big deal, right? Your engine can suck down N2O or atmosphere at the same rate, they both have oxygen in them, why buy N2O? The benefit of N2O lies in the fact that it is 36% oxygen by weight compared to the atmospheres is 23%. So by replacing your engine’s incoming air with Nitrous Oxide you are providing 37% more oxygen. Obviously this extra oxygen does nothing without fuel to burn with it. That’s why Nitrous Oxide kits include a way to either inject more fuel or boost the flow out of the existing fuel injectors or carb jets. You also get some benefit from the fact that N2O is very cold when it is sprayed out of the bottle. Generally speaking you get around 1% increase in horsepower for every 10 degrees you drop in intake charge temps. It’s not uncommon to see 20 to 30 horsepower from the cooling alone.
A few things to think about: Nitrous Oxide can speed up the flame front (the outward burning of the oxygen/gas mixture) in the combustion chamber. This means that your maximum cylinder pressures will occur closer to top dead center (TDC) and the engine will exhibit a proclivity towards detonation. Detonation is bad of course; it tears up parts and reduces horsepower. There are several ways to deal with this. Really you want to shift the max cylinder pressure further after TDC. This is most easily done by simply retarding the timing. Most N2O kit makers recommend something like 2 degrees retard for every 50 horsepower or so. This is generally a good way to solve the problem though your exhaust temps will go up as a result of the retarded timing. Another way that is sometimes used to deal with this detonation is to slow the flame front with an excessively rich mixture. This can cause engine wear at high RPM though, since the unburned gas will dissolve the lubricating oil coating off the cylinder walls. Probably the ideal solution is to use a combination of the two. There are also some more exotic ways to handle this, like shorter rod ratios, custom cam profiles, and even different cylinder head materials and designs. These are usually expensive for the amount of return you get and hence are of questionable value to the average shade tree enthusiast.
Nitrous injection is probably one of the most misunderstood aspects of modern hotrodding today. I thought I would post a little blurb here on how it works.
Nitrous Oxide is the standard convention for pronouncing the chemical formula N2O. N2O means two molecules of nitrogen and one of oxygen. People will often confuse Nitrous Oxide (N2O) with Nitrogen Dioxide (NO2), a highly reactive pollutant found in smog. I think most everyone understands that N2O is a gas at room temperature and pressure. It’s colorless and has sort of a pleasant, sweet odor and taste, as long as it’s not contaminated with sulfur. When inhaled it can produce hysteria and euphoria so automotive N2O distributors put about 100 parts per million of sulfur in their mixes to discourage substance abuse. I used to get my bottle filled by a distributor who would only buy medical grade nitrous (no sulfur added) claiming that it provided more horsepower than the automotive grade stuff. The truth of the matter is that sulfur is an extremely powerful odorant (you only need a few molecules to make a stink) and the very small amounts added to automotive grade mixes are insignificant as far as power is concerned.
I think the common misconception about Nitrous Oxide injection is that many people think N2O is a flammable gas. It is not, N2O is inert, it does not react with oxygen to burn or explode. N2O is stored as a liquid under very high pressures. When reduced to room temperature the liquid boils into a gas and cools to cryogenic temperatures (specifically about -130 degF). What makes N2O so grand is that at around 570degF the molecule splits apart releasing oxygen atoms. These necessary high temperatures are reached on the compression stroke of an engine. So big deal, right? Your engine can suck down N2O or atmosphere at the same rate, they both have oxygen in them, why buy N2O? The benefit of N2O lies in the fact that it is 36% oxygen by weight compared to the atmospheres is 23%. So by replacing your engine’s incoming air with Nitrous Oxide you are providing 37% more oxygen. Obviously this extra oxygen does nothing without fuel to burn with it. That’s why Nitrous Oxide kits include a way to either inject more fuel or boost the flow out of the existing fuel injectors or carb jets. You also get some benefit from the fact that N2O is very cold when it is sprayed out of the bottle. Generally speaking you get around 1% increase in horsepower for every 10 degrees you drop in intake charge temps. It’s not uncommon to see 20 to 30 horsepower from the cooling alone.
A few things to think about: Nitrous Oxide can speed up the flame front (the outward burning of the oxygen/gas mixture) in the combustion chamber. This means that your maximum cylinder pressures will occur closer to top dead center (TDC) and the engine will exhibit a proclivity towards detonation. Detonation is bad of course; it tears up parts and reduces horsepower. There are several ways to deal with this. Really you want to shift the max cylinder pressure further after TDC. This is most easily done by simply retarding the timing. Most N2O kit makers recommend something like 2 degrees retard for every 50 horsepower or so. This is generally a good way to solve the problem though your exhaust temps will go up as a result of the retarded timing. Another way that is sometimes used to deal with this detonation is to slow the flame front with an excessively rich mixture. This can cause engine wear at high RPM though, since the unburned gas will dissolve the lubricating oil coating off the cylinder walls. Probably the ideal solution is to use a combination of the two. There are also some more exotic ways to handle this, like shorter rod ratios, custom cam profiles, and even different cylinder head materials and designs. These are usually expensive for the amount of return you get and hence are of questionable value to the average shade tree enthusiast.
-
Bustamente
- Lärling
- Posts: 710
- Joined: Mon 06 Dec 2004, 23:54
- Location: Göteborg
-
Petrolheads
- Nybörjare
- Posts: 18
- Joined: Fri 04 May 2007, 08:55
- Location: Farsta/Stockholm
re:
Hittade det här för 6.749:-
http://www.twostroke.se/product.asp?pro ... b=0&page=1
http://www.twostroke.se/product.asp?pro ... b=0&page=1
En grädd- eller drinksifon kostar inte mycket. Sen ska man bara fixa en avtryckare som släpper lös gasen i insuget. Har prövats i dragracingsammanhang, vill minnas att resultatet blev en bakåtkullerbytta när NOS'en slog till. 
/G
/G
Bustamente wrote:Bockar och bugar för informationen. Det handlade om lite mer pengar än vad jag har tydligen. Men nu vet jag i alla fall lite mer om hur det fungerar...
==============================
Stahlblech Fahrer vereinigt euch!
==============================
Stahlblech Fahrer vereinigt euch!
==============================
-
Bustamente
- Lärling
- Posts: 710
- Joined: Mon 06 Dec 2004, 23:54
- Location: Göteborg
Jag kör med gas i min caddy ( http://www.garaget.org/?car=75379 ) ,
vill bara tillägga att rätt temperatur/tryck på flaskan gör jätteskillnad...
Munstyckena för soppa och gas är matchade mot varandra att ge ex antal hästar/rätt blandningsförhållande.
Med kall en kall tub sjunker trycket i flaskan och fordonet kan rent utav gå sämre än utan gas, blandningen blir fet och vise versa.
Att försöka matcha bestyckning själv utan grundlig kunskap och syresensor i avgas är att spä på lustgasens dåliga rykte.
Rätt monterat och moderat bestyckat/effektuttag i förhållande till
resterande setup är det klockrent!
vill bara tillägga att rätt temperatur/tryck på flaskan gör jätteskillnad...
Munstyckena för soppa och gas är matchade mot varandra att ge ex antal hästar/rätt blandningsförhållande.
Med kall en kall tub sjunker trycket i flaskan och fordonet kan rent utav gå sämre än utan gas, blandningen blir fet och vise versa.
Att försöka matcha bestyckning själv utan grundlig kunskap och syresensor i avgas är att spä på lustgasens dåliga rykte.
Rätt monterat och moderat bestyckat/effektuttag i förhållande till
resterande setup är det klockrent!
-1967 Primavera 154cc-
Ska man ha lite mos i bitarna ska man upp mot 900psi
För att hålla flaskan varm så finns det tub värmare
att köpa som går på 12v mycket bra lösning!
Annars kan man ju lägga dem i en bil som värmer upp flaksan.
OBS. ha koll på trycket hela tiden och vänd flaskan upp och ner
med gämna mellanrum!
Sen kan jag ju bara konstatera att lustgas är jävligt kul!
För att hålla flaskan varm så finns det tub värmare
att köpa som går på 12v mycket bra lösning!
Annars kan man ju lägga dem i en bil som värmer upp flaksan.
OBS. ha koll på trycket hela tiden och vänd flaskan upp och ner
med gämna mellanrum!
Sen kan jag ju bara konstatera att lustgas är jävligt kul!
"Race on a scooter is like the Special Olympics..... even if you win, you're still retarded"